Friday, March 27, 2015

This Summer

Well it's official ...Pakistan here we come!!! Stay tuned for further updates as the trip approaches. As of today I am on day 8 of training... Just over 11 weeks before we leave. Still wondering how to tell mom about the trip. Needless to say dad was not super psyched to hear of my plans but I suppose by now he is used to it. Can't believe I will actually be climbing in the Karakoram.

For trip info and itinerary you can visit:  K2 & Broad Peak



Monday, September 24, 2012

Wall Season is Here!!

Ever since my El Cap solo in late June my climbing gear has been collecting dust and rust. It felt so good to go through all the gear this week, ad some new pieces that I either managed to drop or just needed to fill out the rack, get evrything cleaned up, re-racked and organized. And once again Fall is here, the full moon is coming and the walls are calling. The bags are packed, the food is bought and the plan is in place. My first Fall season trip of the year in preparation for Steve and I's planned trip up the Captain the week before Thanksgiving.

I have managed to recruit a big wall newby to help ferry my gear to the base of the Column for a full moon ascent this Sunday to Tuesday. If all goes well we will be well up the Prow as the moon rises over Half Dome and illuminates the wall all night.. and climb at night we will.

Stay tuned for updates on this next adventure

Saturday, July 7, 2012


After a week  I have finally recovered from my 7 day solo of Virginia to Tangerine Trip... It was a true physical and pshycological test and an incredible growth experience... Here is a link to the video I put together from the climb... enjoy!   TTrip Video

Tangerine Trip Solo

My 7 day solo of Tangerine Trip on El Cap was a HUGE learning experience and a direct portal to personal growth... trip report to follow.



Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Leaning Tower late season solo... with storm approaching


The Tower is cold and grey and I'm up here all alone. The clouds swirl in and cover everything in a thin coated mixture of water and ice crystals. Having decided to go for a quick winter training solo after seeing the forecasted storm I swing with my feet in the air 2,000 feet up wondering if this was such a good idea. Having only slept about 2 hours in the last two days I am determined to get to the top before the predicted storm arrives.

It's always a gamble when you know there is weather coming in to go up on a route that is difficult  to retreat from, but what better way to prove my metal, get in some needed winter training and have a little fun. If I am going to really go for my El Cap Winter solo this year I have to take advantage of every opportunity that the Sierras give me to take a beating.

This climb was no different. Having not been able to send the 5.7R section on my intended climb of  Wet Denim Daydream and having wasted valuable time trying to make the route go I am now racing the clock on the West Face to get off before night sets in yet again and this time in a cloud of ice and wind.


As I pull over the top I literally feel the first snow flakes falling. My hands are starting to go numb and I'm having trouble staying awake. I strip off all the now un-neccessary gear, set up my rappel and drop back into the white icy mist.

Some time later I am back on top with all my gear quickly setting up the port-a-ledge as the wind whips the mist and snow all around.



Another successful solo and unfortunately this time I am spending the night on top... not to worry, the snow abates, the stars come out and the wind lulls me into a fitful sleep for at least a few hours until it's time to wake up, pack up and head down the rappel gully and descent. As usual my car is the only one waiting for me but this time coupled with a fresh bottle of Port... Life is good!

The Video

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

New Dawn goes smooth

Our 7 day climb on New Dawn last week was one for the record books.. a great ascent and beautiful time spent on El Cap.. video link here New Dawn Video Link